Important as proper lubrication is to the machine, it can also be a major source of splashes and drips if proper care isn’t taken during and after the procedure.
Rather than approaching your embroidery equipment with a can of WD-40, industrial oil can or any other gross means of delivering lubrication, it will benefit more—as will subsequently stitched garments—from a more delicate, almost surgical approach.
See Spot run. And it will. If you want to catch it, though, there are many common household remedies available for the task, over and above the sophisticated equipment and chemistry commonly associated with the industrial task. Much has been written on the best methods to remove backing and topping. Removing stitches, whether we have made a mistake in color or application, is also a valuable skill to perfect, especially if you accidentally stitch a sleeve or collar to the shirt front or totally close a pocket with your embroidery designs. We all seek the best presentation by trimming threads precisely, and carefully removing any threads that have been trapped under sections of the design, especially when they are a different-colored threads.

But, when it comes to removing stains, we often feel helpless. When embroiderers in on-line chat rooms ask about stains, the screen printers among them recommend using the spray gun they use for spot cleaning, as detailed in the previous article. An electric gun forces a controlled spray of solvent through the fabric, sending the spot right through the fabric to the back. This is often very effective and many of the guns have a drying unit and even exhaust the stains through a venting system. You have to be careful to avoid the spray, though, especially if you have any open wounds, as the solvents can be dangerous if they penetrate the body tissues.

Yes, moving a stain through and away from a garment is the “right” way to remove it, but many embroiderers don’t have access to this method.

A little Irish magic

My mother was the best at getting spots out of fabric. She could buy a box of old linens at auction and turn each item into a snowy treasure, good as new. I carried many a dress or baby garment to her, begging her to help me save something treasured. She would laugh and call herself my “Irish washerwoman”—and the truth of that was in her maiden name: O’Day. I seem to have inherited some of her talent as my children call or come with pleas of help, and it’s nice to be able to pass the gift along.

Of course, the first step toward clean is to avoid the substance that causes the stain in the first place. That’s not always possible, but let’s look first at ways in our world of embroidery to begin as we mean to go on . . . with a clean environment.

The embroidery machine is always with us, and oil is its best friend. After oiling, we run the risk of a drip dropping on the first goods stitched, no matter how well we wipe down the machine or how many runs we stitch to shake loose any errant drops.

Some embroiderers like to oil in the morning so that the running of the machine will disperse the oil. Others think that an evening oil treatment is better so the oil will settle into the machine or run off during the night and a good cleaning with cotton swabs and cloths in the morning will prevent any staining.

One good tip, no matter what your oiling schedule, is to stitch dark goods first after oiling so that any stains that do occur will be less noticeable. If you have to stitch light goods—or if your mindset is against stains no matter what the color of the garments—hoop or place a piece of topping over the design area before you hit the start button. Any excess oil will fall on the topping and not the garment, reducing staining and lessening any eventual cleaning chores.

Remember when you are watching the top of the goods that oil can cause issues below, from bobbin thread that has been inserted, case and all, into a hook assembly swimming with oil. The first thing to remember is that only two or three drops (use a hypodermic needle or the kind of oil dispenser that delivers only a drop at a time) of oil are required to keep the raceway and hook assembly in running order. If you accidentally over-oil, clean up the residue with a quality cotton swab (some cheaper ones have entirely too much lint and too loose a cushion) before you insert the loaded case into the hook assembly. Nothing makes a bigger mess than a bobbin saturated with oil that migrates to every top thread it touches and, thus, to the garment.

The hoops

Hoops cause something we call “hoop burn.” Hoop burns typically result from hoops that are simply too tight (operator error), but they can also be invited by the fabric content of the garment, the type of dye and the finishing methods. Natural fabrics, especially those that have been dyed, show marks that polyester and blended garments do not.

Lint rollers can remove hoop marks on dark colored goods. Rub the side of the tube against the fabric in a sideways motion and watch hoop marks disappear. Light hoop marks can be erased with a spritz of Magic Sizing or plain water in a spray bottle. Keep a bottle nearby and spray the goods when they come off the machine. They will be dry and ready to inspect before they reach your finishing area.

Remember that a really heavy burn can result in bruised or broken fibers and that can destroy the integrity of the goods during laundering or dry-cleaning and eventually may cause holes and runs. Learning how to hoop correctly—with just the right amount of hoop tension—will start you off on the right foot.

A mixture of white vinegar and water will also help remove the contact shine caused by hoops. You can also rub the fabric against itself or a like piece of fabric. You can complete two tasks at once by using steam from an iron or steamer to restore the fabric while removing any water-soluble topping used.

When working with a fuzzy or sueded fabric, use a soft toothbrush to remove hoop marks as well as brush up any of the fabric’s nap.

Avoid hoop burns completely by hooping a piece of backing on top of the garments and cutting a window through which the design can stitch. Or, use the hoopless hoops that require a sticky backing that attaches to the underside of the metal hoop and holds the fabric without any hoop insert on the top.

Errant stains

Although it is always best to keep any stain-producing products away from the embroidery area, sometimes spots just happen. The most common stain that comes to mind is blood: Where you have a needle, you have the possibility of a drop of blood staining the goods.

Time is always of the essence when seeking successful stain removal. Just dipping a clean cloth in water and treating the stain immediately can save many a garment. Be careful using water, however, on any goods that say “Dry Clean Only.” Remember, too, that some threads react to dry-cleaning fluids causing a halo to bloom around the embroidery. Dry cleaning can often remove stains even from washable fabrics, though, so if all else fails when trying to remove a stain, take it to the dry-cleaning establishment of your choice—and be sure to tell them exactly what caused the stain. Communication is very important.

I keep a box of clean rags (the dedicated kind you get from the hardware store) in my shop for blotting with clear water. I also always have on hand a box of baby wipes. Many swear by Huggies brand as the most effective, but I have great luck (even when I spill coffee on my own shirt) with the generic wipes from Costco.

Types of cleaning materials

Absorbents: Cornstarch or talcum powder can be used to soak up stains. They remove the staining liquid without the rubbing that can spread the stain.

Denatured alcohol: Place an absorbent fabric under the stain (a natural or white fabric will prevent dye from migrating and adding to the problem). Apply with an eyedropper in a well-ventilated room.

Ammonia: This is really a mild bleach with a different chemistry that often works when chlorine bleach does not. Use sparingly with an eyedropper, mixing one part ammonia with five parts of water. Use in a ventilated area and never mix it with chlorine bleach.

Bleach: This is a color remover, rather than a stain remover. Lemon juice or white vinegar mixed 1:1 with water are also considered bleaches. Hydrogen peroxide in a three percent solution is a stronger bleach than vinegar or lemon juice and works well when a chlorine bleach is not required. Use chlorine bleach diluted with water only as a last result as it can erode the fibers in the fabric. Use an eyedropper and apply to only the stain. Never mix it with ammonia or vinegar as dangerous fumes may result.

Laundry boosters: These products contain solvents for oil- and water-based stains.

Detergents: A detergent used in dishwashing often removes stains. Work it into the area and let it sit for a few minutes before rinsing. I have had great results with Dawn and Palmolive.

Digestant: Pepsin and amylase are enzymes found in laundry detergents. Make a paste from the dry product and apply to the stain. If the product is already a liquid, apply directly. Wait for a half hour, keeping the area moist, then rinse or wash.

Glycerin: This heavy blend of fats and oils can often treat stains without spreading them. Ink stains respond well to glycerin when worked into the stain and then washed. Glycerin can be purchased in bottles or suppositories (which makes a convenient way to store it in usable amounts).

Oil solvent: Dry-cleaning solvents are available at hardware stores. They contain organic compounds that can be very volatile, though, so must be used carefully and in well-ventilated areas. (Be sure to read the preceding article for more information on these and similar fluids.)

Petroleum jelly: Removes bacon grease, motor oil, suntan lotion and oil-based stains.

Common stains

In embroidery we may encounter ballpoint pen ink, pencil marks, coffee, dried blood, glue, iron scorch, and tea stains.

Ballpoint pen: With washables, apply glycerin, treat with detergent and rinse. Try hairspray (a strong one like AquaNet) for a quick treatment. On non-washables, use glycerin then an oil solvent.

Blood: Blood can be removed by washing the garment in warm water with a cold rinse several times. Hydrogen peroxide can also remove blood. And try a mixture of a quarter cup ammonia to three-quarters cup water and dish detergent.

Coffee: On washables, use an oil solvent then put the garment over a bowl and pour boiling water through the stain from 12 inches above. Use oil solvents on dry goods for cream stains, with vinegar as needed. Also try a quarter cup of ammonia to three-quarters cup of water and dish detergent, and a dash of acetic acid. On non-washables use glycerin then an oil solvent.

Tea: Spread the garment over a bowl and pour boiling water from 12 inches above. Use a combination of solvent and cool water, oil solvent if needed, then rinse with vinegar and water and, finally, plain water. If the garment is not washable, use glycerin, let stand for half an hour, then rinse.

Glue: On washables soak in warm water then launder. Dry clean any non-washables.

Iron scorch: This one is tough, especially on synthetics. Pat with hydrogen peroxide or rub the stain with fine emery paper then wash and bleach any remaining stain with water and vinegar (mixed 1:1).

Pencil lead: On washables try a clean eraser first, then apply a liquid soap and ammonia mixture and rinse. On non-washables, use an oil solvent.

Some last words of advice

When attacking a stain, remember not to rub it. You will just work the stain deeper into the fabric and it will eventually reappear. Scrubbing and brushing a stain moves it around and the action may tear the fiber. You should push the stains through the garment (as the screen printers do) whenever possible. Watch as you use a stain remover; you can see the oil coming through the back as it is forced through the fabric.

Remember my warning about keeping the embroidery area clear, and you may never encounter many of these stains. But, if stains happen, try these solutions.