Nothing sets your product and your business apart like a dollop of different. You can make a name for yourself with textured, innovative, dimensional and creative digitizing effects. You can add fabric (appliqué), combine printing and embroidery, print photos on your appliqué fabric, or invest in a machine with sequin, chenille, boring or cording capabilities.

Or you can add some rhinestones!

Just a trip to the local shopping mecca will underscore the popularity of bling. It’s on the garments in the windows of the stores; it’s on the shirts of the people meandering through the mall. Shoes, shorts, shirts, jackets, jeans, headbands—I’ve seen them all embellished with these diamonds of the decorated-apparel world. And my conclusion is that rhinestones are bright and beautiful embellishment but, like any other “add-on,” from puffy foam to tassels, a little judicious decision making and a lot of restraint can turn the “r” in crass to the “l” in class.

I am not against whole worlds being fashioned of rhinestones, but a carefully thought-out design with stones used to accentuate and glamorize can mean the difference between a garment worn once or over and over again. Even diamonds take on a tawdry look when they’re used to brag instead of brighten. Perhaps these thoughts come from my background as an embroiderer, where I am always looking for ways to punctuate my stitching. An example of this is a shirt where the league name was embroidered in an arch and then “ALLSTAR MOM” added in rhinestones. The stones added visual meaning to the word “allstar” and punctuated rather than overwhelmed the design.

So let’s look at how we can get those shinys from the package to the product. We’ll start with the simplest and make our way to the sublime.

A little glue and . . .

The late, great Billy Mays sold us Mighty Mendit at the top of his voice, and threw in a bottle of Mighty Gemit (with 50 gems) as a bonus. The process is simple. Use the nozzle or a cotton swab to place a dab of glue and add the bling. Make sure you use enough glue to reach to the edges of the rhinestone so you are adhering the stone and not just the mirror backing. Applicator sticks (better than cotton swabs) are available for placing stones. These have wax on one end to grab the stone. A little twist after placing the stone will free the stick and you can keep working. These work better than tweezers as glue tends to build up on tweezers and the stones can be pulled off. Do not get ahead of yourself and place more glue spots than you can adhere stones to at one time. You do not want the surface to dry before you place a stone.

Other suitable glues are Gem-Tac and E6000. Look for glue where the directions state it is for working with gem stones. It is a good idea to test any glue by setting a stone on a sample of your target fabric. Allow the glue to dry before moving the fabric or wearing the garment. Most glues are not dry-cleanable and hand washing is advised over machine washing. If you really want a machine-washable product, use smaller stones. Never use hot-glue, epoxy, white glue, super glue or a glue gun on stones. It may discolor the fabric or destroy the finish of the stone. Glues intended for fixing gems hold better and dry clear.

Hot-fix method

Hot-melt glue such as used in glue guns is not suitable for setting rhinestones. If you want to hot-glue rhinestones, use a wand applicator (think soldering iron) and heat-fix (HF) stones. The temperature required to set stones can vary by brand so make sure you have the right directions. Overheating the stones is not advised as the heat will spread on to the fabric and can stain it. Again, avoid using dry-clean-only fabrics as the chemicals in the cleaning fluid are not glue friendly.

Swarovski has a hot-fix stone that it claims to be dry-cleanable. Do your own homework before decorating a dry-clean-only fabric and/or advising a customer that dry cleaning is acceptable.

Before pre-heating the hot-fix tool, attach the tip that matches the size of the rhinestone being used. Heat up the tool for 10-15 minutes. Place the HF rhinestone where you want to attach it with the face up and the glue down. Press the hot-fix tool’s tip against the top of the rhinestone. The tool will heat the rhinestone, causing the glue to melt and affix the stone to the target surface. You can use an iron to attach HF rhinestones. Be sure to place a cloth over the stones and hold the iron against them long enough for the glue to melt. A heat press can also be used.

There is also a vacuum applicator (mine is made by Viva) that has a vacuum tip that will hold any size rhinestone. You can regulate the vacuum pump and the heater separately. To use it you turn on the heat to the lowest level for five minutes, then switch on the vacuum pump. Place a finger over the air hole to direct the suction to the tweezers tip and lift a heat-fix rhinestone with the glass side up and the glue side down. Place the stone on the fabric and release the stone by removing your finger from the air hole and pressing gently. The rhinestone will be glued to the fabric.

A much more sophisticated model is available called the LASTAR. It works with vacuum suction and applies the stones with ultrasound vibrations. Two tips are available for different size stones.

Mounting hardware

Four-pronged Tiffany settings are available for attaching stones to fabric, including leather. These are placed from the back of and extend through the fabric. The stone is then placed inside the setting which wraps over the edges of the stone. These are best applied with a Brisk Setter (plunger-type tool) or BeDazzler (stapler-type tool). There is also a Mini BeDazzler for adhering stones to pockets and other tight spots. There are also “hand” setters which do a nice job.

Some stone craftsmen lightly glue the stone before mounting, for extra insurance. When using a tool such as the Brisk Setter, mark the design on the reverse of the fabric, place the Tiffany setting on the pin of the Brisk Setter, prongs-down, and twist gently. Place the rhinestone face down in the center of the cup, then settle the fabric face-down over the cup. Place the pin over the mark you made, then clamp the Brisk Setter shut.

A rim setting is another means of attaching stones to fabrics. This one has a circular metal casing that encircles the face of the rhinestone. Prongs go through the fabric and are bent to secure the stone. These are placed one at a time and a small amount of glue can be used to hold the stone in place. Stretch the fabric as you place the rim over the stone to avoid puckering it. Use a suitable tool to bend the prongs on the reverse of the fabric (an ordinary table spoon will do.) You can also use the Brisk Setter for applying rim settings. You will need to purchase the Rim-Set adaptor which also can be used to attach nailheads. There is a different adaptor for each rhinestone size. After attaching the adaptor to the Brisk Setter, mark the design on the reverse of the fabric. Place the rhinestone in the adaptor face down and the prongs face up. Place the fabric over the base of the Brisk Setter and clamp the tool shut, being sure to keep the fabric smooth and in place.

Sew-on jewels

Jewels and rhinestones can be sewn on fabric; be sure to purchase “sew-on” jewels. Some have one, others two holes for sewing. When sewing on the one-holed variety, stitch through the hole from the back, sliding a seed bead (your supplier will know what this is) on the needle, then stitch back through the hole. Use a beading needle for this task as a regular needle will be too thick to pass through the center of the seed bead. Monofilament thread, a clear or smoke-hued thread made of polyester or nylon, works well. Silk thread is also a good choice.

Just as in embroidery, keep your thread tangle-free by spraying a cloth with fabric softener and wiping down the thread; or use a dryer softener sheet, even a used one. Ask about the jewels’ resistance to dry-cleaning fluids as there is no glue to worry about and the right sew-on product may allow dry-clean-only fabrics to be embellished.

Templates for rhinestone “transfers”

Although most of the methods discussed above are the most economical way to take your stones from thought to shirt, there are more costly methods that lend themselves more to mass-production, less labor and uniform results.

A relatively sophisticated rhinestone-application solution incorporates both vacuum and ultrasonic vibrations to hold, mount, then release individual stones. (Image courtesy Jan Calahan, Oak Tree Embroidery.)

Roland DGA Corp. makes a rotary engraver that can be used to cut patterns in plastic templates for rhinestone application. The benefit of a template are that it can be used more than once (stock designs), allows for precise, identical applications, and sets many stones at once. Both the engraver and the software are required to produce the templates. If you already have the engraver to produce name tags, consider expanding its use and your offerings. The same plastic is used for the templates as is used to make the name tags. A downside to this process is that, if a template’s holes are the wrong size for your rhinestones, you have to produce another one; not all rhinestones are the same, they have size variation, even if they have the same dimension rating.

The software that’s part of this system allows you to take any font and change it to a single-line engraving font which works very well with stones. Simple shapes and patters are included in the tool selection of the software, making it easy to create fast, simple designs such as stars, circles, squares and so on.

Digital Art Solutions has developed a rhinestone and stud system for making templates that works in tandem with a cutter. The company offers the option of a cutter so, if you already have one, you are half-way there.

This system comes with intuitive software and a superior manual which makes the learning curve less steep for the novice. DAS has a catalogue of pre-programmed template patterns that can be cut and used in your design creation. You can also use any vectored graphic to create a stencil with this software. The design template is cut from special stone-stencil material. Multiple templates can be cut for different sections of the same design, allowing multiple size and color stones to be used. After the template is cut, it is placed in a tray where it is flooded with the stones of your choice. The unique shape of the stones causes them to fall into the stencil right side up. The pattern is then transferred to a clear carrier which holds the stones in place. The carrier and stones are then placed on the target garment and the design is applied with a heat press. Backer board can be used to make a stable, reusable template that can be carefully stored in your growing library of stone-stencil designs.

There are other rhinestone mass-production options out there, and I recommend checking at your nearest Printwear Show for the latest and greatest. Do remember that, if you have a system for cutting templates, you can not only expand your own decorating capabilities, but also offer to make templates for those who are not ready to make the equipment investment.

Automatic rhinestone machine

If your budget allows, or you are eager to add production rhinestone work to your menu or make templates for other apparel embellishers, an automatic rhinestone setter might be the choice for you. These machines can set rhinestones on transfer paper at rates of 170 stones per minute with a 15.75c X 15.75c work area. With transfer in hand, you just use your heat press to apply the design to the target fabric.

This cadillac of the rhinestone arena makes slow production a thing of the past and offers absolute design uniformity. The machine can take size and color into account for intricate and multi-colored designs and create that same design multiple times. Rhinestone design software is included which allows designs of up to six colors and sizes to be created using rhinestones or metal studs. Optional models for even more diverse customization are available. Be sure to ask what other equipment is needed to operate this system.

Some final thoughts

As with all equipment and processes, remember that what works best is what works for you. Be sure to check all warranties and get some insight into tech support and more by networking with others that have added “stoning” to their repertoire. Do your homework on the Internet, at trade shows, and by asking questions on your favorite educational forum. Remember that it costs less to offer more to your current customer base than to seek and add new customers.

A word about suppliers: Being a loyal customer will allow you to purchase stones that are consistent in size as well as build a relationship that may grant you better pricing or notification of any special sales. “Cherry-picking” for best prices will leave you with the dilemma of the natural size variations that occur even in the same dimension rating of stones.

Author’s note: My thanks to Casey Molinari of Casey’s Creations, Bev Smith of Sew Simple, Bob Fox of Foxtops Embroidery, and Carol Hoak of Art in Stitches, for their contributions to this story.

Helpful Rhinestone Hints:

If you decide to jump in with both feet, take these refinements into consideration. . . .

Use 6ss to 10ss rhinestones if the garment is going to be washed often. They hold up better than larger stones.

Use a piece of kraft paper between layers of a shirt to ensure that hot glue does not seep through.

Use a small mousepad to raise the fabric when placing stones on the back of necks or on the “T” of racer-back tank tops.

Use a velvet board to press crystals on velvet garments, pressing from the inside to protect the nap of the velvet.

Irons, “baby” irons, wands and wood-burning tools can all make-do for setting crystals when you are just starting.

Crystals can be placed on marble, laptops, leather, ribbon, pen sets, shoes and more.

A quick check on the actual size of stones allows you to adjust your template diameter. You can experiment with hole sizes to see what works the best with your cutter/software/material combination.

A battery-operated digital caliper is available from Harbor Freight that reads both inches and millimeters with amazing accuracy. It is useful when comparing rhinestone sizes, and reads both inside and outside measurements. Using the inside-measurement feature allows you to check the diameter of the holes in a template so you can choose your stones accurately.

Digitizers can create lettering stitch files comprised of small circles. Words can then be created and stitched in a color that matches the fabric and use that as a template for setting crystals.

Internet Resources:

The following websites will lead you to more information on certain of the products and processes cited in this article. Happy stoning!

www.mightymendit.com

http://www.rolanddga.com/ASD/products/software/rWearStudio/ (Roland system)

http://www.dazzleurself.com/ (Vacuum tool)

http://abcsewingmachine.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=17... (Lastar)

www.mybedazzler.com (BeDazzler)

www.mjtrim.com (Brisk Setter, Hot fixer)

http://www.mesadist.com/rhinestone_equipment.shtml (Automatic Rhinestone Machine)

http://www.rhinestonesystem.com/ (Digital Arts Solutions Rhinestone System)

Rhinestone Glossary:

To most of us, this is brave new territory to traverse. Unless you’re one who’s “in the know,” here are some useful rhinestone terms to add to your embellished-apparel lexicon:

Roses—round rhinestones with a flat back which can be set using the Tiffany or rim-set methods. They can also be glued. Hot-fix (HF) versions are backed with glue. Rose Montees are Roses mounted in a metal cup. These can be sewn to fabric from four directions and work well for free-standing products such as tiaras.

Lochrosen—round rhinestones with a flat back and a hole in the center for attaching with thread and a bead. Can also be glued.

Edge-hole rhinestones (flat-back sew-on)—come in a variety of sizes and the shape can be round, heart-shaped, teardrop and more. These may have two holes at the edges that allow for applying the stones by sewing. Two holes allow for stronger attachment to the fabric than the Lochrosen. These stones can also be glued, although the larger ones need the more secure thread application.

Chatons—round rhinestones with a peaked back. These require a rhinestone setter and Chaton Montees are Chatons mounted in a metal cup.

Rhinestone banding—a chain of stones, each mounted in a cup made of metal or plastic. These come in rows that are single, double, triple, quadruple and more. They’re connected with thread or elastic thread. They can also be attached to colored net or elastic backing. Imagine an appliqué using this “material”!

Navette—shaped like a cat eye, also called a Marquis cut.

Cabochons—a stone that is shaped and polished. There are no sides or “facets.” Opaque stones are cut; transparent stones are facetted. There are also embellishments that are diamonds, ovals, square, flowers and more.