Unlike puffy foam, trapunto sewing doesn't require any special digitizing techniques. It can be used on most any fabric, and is more commonly found in designs with larger fill areas. Softer and thicker substrate materials work great.

A number of embellishment trends for garments––including T shirts, fleece, jackets and other apparel––have emerged and gained strength over the last decade. These include techniques from water-based screen printing, oversize printing, over-the-seams printing, textures and the use of novel heat-transfer materials, all the way to an array of special-effects printing and embroidery techniques that incorporate combinations of all the above. To me, this is clear evidence of the continuing existance in our marketplace of a desire to maintain a distinction between the two-color, mass-produced spot print—destined for yard work and trips to the gym by the thousands—and the artistic, creative design that perhaps costs a little more to produce and requires more embellisher sophistication, but will be worn and maintained proudly by its owner, enhancing and perpetuating whatever promotional message it might bear.

There are apparel decorators, then there are cutting-edge apparel decorators, as there is always a need for embellished garments at all levels, from the basic to the bizarre. While at first I hesitated to take on a project for Printwear’s “Embroidery Guidebook” about special-effects embroidery because I’ve always thought our strengths lay mostly with screen-printing techniques, I realized we have been in the embroidery business for many years now and we do have a reputation for pushing the envelope in many mediums. In fact, we spend so much time and money coming up with new and innovative methods—our own creativity being our only limitation—we agreed to try and pass along some of that mind set in this article.

Reach new heights

Most specialty applications in any embellishment method have a lot to do with dimension and texture—particularly true with embroidery. Common dimensional-embroidery techniques include 3D and puffy-foam embroidery, with a couple different applications that produce similar effects but use different methods to achieve them.

Layered 3D embroidery is achieved by increasing (by as much as double) the stitch count in a design or parts of a design. This makes the design thicker, raising it up and away from the garment’s surface. While neither 3D nor foam techniques work well with highly detailed designs, the layered 3D effect allows you to achieve greater detail than the puffy-foam application. This technique works well on thinner materials that will be washed regularly such as Ts, woven shirts, polos and sweatshirts. 

Puffy-foam embroidery uses a foam underlining to achieve an extreme three-dimensional effect. The foam comes in different widths and colors to accommodate an array of products and thread colors. This application also requires the stitch count to double, so the foam will not be visible through the thread. Puffy-foam embroidery works best with block or large round-shaped letters. Artwork for puffy embroidery should have rounded corners so that the needle perforates the edges of the foam in the design and covers it completely, making the image pop off the substrate. Thicker materials that won’t be washed as often work best with this application. Hats and caps are ideal, and heavier materials such as denim jackets are also applicable. The digitizing can be tricky, but the actual embroidery is fairly straightforward.

In addition to stitch counts using puffy-foam being higher than those of regular designs, the procedure itself unfolds in a slightly different manner. Everything flat gets sewn first, the machine is then stopped while a piece of puffy foam similar in color to the applicable thread color is laid on top of the fabric, the machine is restarted and sews over the foam. A normal sharp-point needle perforates the foam while the thread loops over the top of it. The excess foam is removed when the design is complete. Each color of thread in the design element is handled the same way. The foam edges can subsequently be cleaned up using a heat gun in the trimming process.

Traditional loftiness

When combining elements in a multi-media presentation wherein embroidery is combined with any number of other media, laser positioning systems can be very helpful. Then again, so can common thumbtacks!

While these 3D processes are popular and most common, there are other specialty techniques. Unlike puffy foam, trapunto sewing doesn’t really require any special digitizing techniques. It can be used on most any fabric, and is more commonly found in designs with larger fill areas. Softer and thicker substrate materials work great.

Trapunto puffs up the fabric so it lofts above the areas that are embroidered. A standard cutaway backing is used and, while hooping, a batting or filler material is placed between the backing and the garment fabric. As the design is sewn, the stitching flattens out the batting and allows the negative space between the stitching patterns to puff up. In large fill areas stitch counts are significantly reduced while still imparting texture to the design. This process can be combined with an appliqué to produce another look in which material in the applique is puffed up. With all of these variations and combinations of them, the possibilities are endless.

Like trupunto, appliqué is another technique that can replace heavy fill-stitch areas with an assortment of fabrics. From pre-cut shapes to custom laser-cut forms. Appliqué reduces overall stitch counts and allows the production of more cost-effective, larger-sized graphics with textures and effects that enhance typical embroidered images. Appliqué is usually a three-step process. A running stitch sews an outline for material positioning. The machine is stopped and the appliqué is placed in the hoop. An adhesive can be added to the back of the material to help hold the appliqué in place. The material is then tacked down and the border stitch is sewn. Nearly any fabric can be used.

Metallic, glitter, glow-in-the-dark and even photo- or thermo-chormic color-change threads may be considered basic embroidery indgedients that come with the special effects built right in.

Many applications can be made post-embroidery using heat-transfer methods and a plethora of materials with pressure-sensitive backings that are available. A transfer machine gives us the ability to combine several different types of media, alongside the embroidery.

In addition to transfers and screen printing, we can design with studs, rhinestones and other bling. Reflective, foils, flock and glitter materials can be heat applied then sewn through on an embroidery machine.

Another clever embroidery approacy is known as fringe. Fringe embroidery has been around for a while, but like all things retro has been reborn in the last few years. Fringe embroidery is a technique that almost looks like hair. It is sewn like standard embroidery and additional materials are not needed. After an image is sewn areas of the thread are cut from the back and pulled through the front. To create this effect, fringe stitches need to be longer than usual. The length can be as long as your machine will allow you to sew. The longer the stitch, the more dramatic the fringe will be. Using a few layers of running stitches or a thin satin stitch will secure the fringe.

The most important step when executing any special effects technique, be it puff, trapunto, applique or fringe, is proper design. High quality original artwork and digitizing is always key.

Multi-media presentation

Special-effects embroidery doesn’t have to be flashy. In many cases, the very most basic element of a design—as far as the customer is concerned—requires or may be enhanced by an appreciation of SFX technique.

Bling, anyone? There’s no end to the extent sequins, rhinestones and other bits o’ shiney stuff can be incorporated with printing, embroidery or other heat-applied graphics.

In addition to the SFX methods mentioned above, I would be remiss not to discuss mixed media—a subject with which we are most familiar as we deal with it almost dayly. Mixed media requires creativity not only in design but also in production. That means matching capabilities with media and production requirements––in addition to customer needs, decorating options that can efficiently be achieved together.

Not all mixed-media work is profitable for everyone. Having an idea for a mixed media combination is only part of the challenge. To make an image look good and be productive, planning is key. Engineering a mixed-media design can involve a ton of R&D. With mixed media, it’s important to look at the specifics of each decorating process and how each fits within the others. Early considerations include how to locate each component within the multi-media project. It is critical when combining screen printing with embroidery that the shirt be in the exact same position every time. Devising a way to consistently mark the hoop position and needle start position on the substrate is critical.

Registering multi-media designs can be challenging. A hidden registration mark (or three) within the screen print is very helpful. Using these marks as a starting point for the needle helps ensure correct placement. It goes without saying that to set up a mixed media job so each process will register with the other is critical. The print must be positioned correctly and each decorating element accurately aligned. Lasers can be helpful in allignment but simple thumb tacks can be used to identify these registration points. When engineering a mixed-media print, planning artwork position is critical. 

Alternatives to the usual

It is critical to cost out specialty work accurately and price accordingly. Special-effects embroidery markets include corporate, retail, urban fashion and resort, to name but a few. As with any decorating technique, price is always an issue. Some people are willing to pay, and some are not.

SFX embroidery offers unique and innovative alternatives that can increase the bottom line. It takes time and committment to make any specialty decorating technique successful. Texture is the name of the game and specialty embroidery will offer additional opportunities for combining fabrics, embroidery, screen printing and other decorating methods. Combining decorating processes to create multi-media designs gives the customer an alternative to basic prints and standard left chest embroidery placements.