Glossary | Printwear

Allan Solly

A set-on placket, but it is sewn to the inside of the garment. The facei of the placket is made of the front of the shirt. See also: Plackets Synonyms: Allan Solly Placket

Appliqué

A separate, pre-cut piece of fabric that is decorated (or decorated and then cut), then applied to another piece of fabric, typically a garment.

Back locker pad

An additional piece of material that is sewn on the back of a shirt beneath the collar. It is semi-circular in shape and is designed to add strength to the area of the shirt that will experience stress from being hung from its locker loop or simply hung by its collar from a locker hook, etc. See also: Locker loop

Bedford cord

A cousin of corduroy, but without the filling yarns that make the elevated wales that are characteristic of corduroy. This strong and durable cottoni fabric has slightly raised ridges that flow lengthwise. See also: Corduroy

Bird’s eye

A two-color fabric design associated with double-knit fabric.

Blind hem

A hem wherein only very tiny tack stitches appear on the fabric surface. Not always secure when sewn on knits, so may unravel after washing.

Breathable

When a fabric allows vapors to pass through its fibers.

Buckram

A stiff backing fabric that is often used to facilitate embroidery and add structure to cap fronts.

Chambray

A lightweight plain-woven fabric used for shirts and linings. Typically made of cotton, chambrayi can also be woven of silk or synthetics. See also: Cotton

Collar

See also: Crewneck Collar, Interfacing, Johnny Collar, Mock-turtle Collar, Shawl Collar, Turtleneck Collar, V-neck Collar Synonyms: Collars

Colorfast

A term referring to the permanence and durability of the color of a fabric or print. A colorfasti garment, embroidered design or screen print is usually fade- and run-resistant when exposed to washing, abrasion and the sun.

Combed cotton

Cottoni fibers that have undergone an additional processing step beyond carding (the basic pre-spinning procedure that produces uniform, continuous strands of fiber). The combing process produces fibers that are more uniform in diameter, which make a more desirable and expensive yarn. See also: Cotton

Corduroy

A durable woven cotton fabric that is often used in its medium-weight form for items such as shirts, slacks, jackets and trim. Its most recognizable characteristic is its lengthwise wales (also known as cords). See also: Bedford cord, Cotton Synonyms: cords

Cotton

Grown on a cottoni plant, the desirable fibers are harvested from within the seed pod. Average fiber length ranges from 1/2" to 2" long. The highest-quality fabrics are derived from Pima and Egyptian cotton, which typically produce fibers that are longer than 1-1/2". See also: Chambray, Combed cotton, Corduroy, Denim, Duck, Oxford

Cover-stitch

Double-needle stitch that is used to secure seams while also lending a finished look. Cover stitching is often found around armholes and the cuffs common to knit shirts. See also: Double-needle hem

Crewneck Collar

This type of collar is considered a “collarless” look on a shirt, which is characterized by a cuff-like, rounded finish. See also: Collar

Cut

This refers to the number of needles per inch on a circular-knitting machine. A machine with 22 needles per inch produces a 22-cut fabric. Higher cuts equate to finer fabrics.

Denim

Woven cottoni fabric, usually of medium weighti, that is commonly used for making shirts, slacks and jackets. Indigo blue is its traditional color. See also: Cotton

Digitize

To translate a graphic design or text into computer language (digital values) for output from computerized embroidery machines onto substrates.

Dimensional stability

Refers to the tendency of a garment to shrink or distort after washing. A garment that is dimensionally stable is one that is likely to maintain its intended shape through many washings.

Double-needle hem

Much like a cover-stitchi in which two rows of stitching are sewn parallel to each other. This technique is used to securely hem a garment and give it a more finished appearance. See also: Cover-stitch, Single-needle hem

Drop tail

An extension of the back panel of a shirt at the point of the separation of side ventsi. The effect is designed for functionality rather than form as it helps the shirt stay tucked in during movement. See also: Side vents

Duck

This plain-woven cottoni fabric is typically heavyweight and is very strong and durable. It is often used for apparel that gets heavy use, such as work clothes and kidswear. See also: Cotton

Face

The most attractive side of a fabric; the side of the fabric that makes up the outside of a garment; most suitable for decoration. See also: Herringbone

Fleece

Originally referring only to sheep’s wool, this type of fabric is now made of other natural and synthetic fibers and can be woven or knitted. It is typically thick with a napped or pile inner surface and is often used for jackets, blankets and sweatshirts.

Forward shoulders

The positioning of shoulder seams so they don’t lie directly across the top of the shoulders. Rather, the seams lie slightly forward. This prevents the neck from falling backwards, making an uncomfortable fit for the wearer.

Garment-dyed

When a garment is dyed after it has been manufactured. This produces variation in color throughout an individual garment and from garment to garment, even if they’re part of the same dye-lot. It’s usually considered a more casual look.

Hand

How a fabric or print feels to the touch. The term is usually modified by an adjective such as soft, rough, firm, medium, etc.

Henley

No separate piece of fabric is attached, the fabric of the shirt itself is folded back and tacked at the bottom. See also: Plackets Synonyms: Henley Placket

Herringbone

This pattern is a variation of the twilli weave, creating a repetitive zigzag pattern on the fabric’s face. See also: Face, Twill

Houndstooth

Another variation of the twilli weave, this one produces a broken-check pattern when woven with two different yarn colors. See also: Twill

Interfacing

A stiff material that is placed between two pieces of fabric to add shape to certain areas of a garment. It’s often used in the collars and plackets of shirts made of woven fabric. See also: Collar, Plackets

Interlock knit

A fabric created when two single-faced knits (i.e., jersey kniti) are knitted together, or interlocked, to form one piece of fabric. Both sides of the fabric look and feel the same. It has a very soft handi and good decorating surface for embroidery as well as screen-printing. See also: Jersey knit

Jacquard

Can be woven or knit fabrics. Woven fabrics are produced by using the Jacquardi attachment on the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Fabrics of almost any type or complexity can be made. For example, brocade and damask are types of woven jacquard fabrics. Knitting machines can also be fitted with a Jacquard-type mechanism. This device individually controls needles or small groups of needles, and allows very complex and highly patterned knits to be created.

Jersey knit

A single-faced knitted fabric that is the primary fabric used for T-shirts. The knit stitch on its face (front) side is called the plain stitch; the stitch on the opposite (back) side is called the purl stitch. See also: Interlock knit

Johnny Collar

Although some variation exists, typically a traditional fashion collar sewn into a V-neck silhouette. See also: Collar, V-neck Collar

Locker loop

An additional piece of fabric sewn into the inside collar or on the outside rear of a shirt that allows the garment to be easily hung from a locker hook. See also: Back locker pad

Lyocell

A fabric made from wood pulp. Tencel is a well-known brand name of this fabric.

Mercerize

To process yarn or fabric to give it luster and added strength.

Microfiber

A woven fabric that is made of synthetic yarn that is thinner than a standard strand of silk yarn.

Mock-turtle Collar

Like a turtleneck, but this collar sits lower on the neck, does not fit as close and is not designed to be turned down. See also: Collar, Turtleneck Collar

Oversized

When a garment is intentionally cut larger than the standard size.

Oxford

A lightweight woven fabric that is usually made of cotton. It is most commonly used for shirts. See also: Cotton

Panel/piece program

When a manufacturer sends out unfinished pieces of a garment or other item to be embroidered before it is sewn into the finished product.

PFD

Prepared For Dyeingi, which refers to a garment or other item that is specifically made to be dyed after finishing. Synonyms: Prepared For Dyeing

Piqué knit

This type of knit fabric is popularly used in its medium to heavyweight form for placket shirts. It can be easily recognized by its honeycomb or waffle-like surface appearance.

Plackets

See also: Allan Solly, Henley, Interfacing, Reinforced box, Set-on

Reinforced box

A square sewn at the bottom of a placket to add strength to that area. See also: Plackets Synonyms: Reinforced box placket

Rib fabric

A type of knitted fabric that features a vertical “striped” texture.

Set-on

A separate piece of fabric, making the placket, is sewn onto the shirt. See also: Plackets Synonyms: Set-on Placket

Shawl Collar

A turned-over, continuous collar that drapes down slightly in the front.